Big Sur Condors

by Keith Taylor

California Condors are reliable at their roosting site (daily with inclement weather during the winter months) at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park (about 30 miles south of Monterey, California). The main roost is directly above Big Sur Lodge ( http://www.bigsurlodge.com ). Stop at the pull-outs on Highway 1 opposite the lodge parking lot (highly visible) or drive into the park and look from the lodge's parking lot or from either side of the small bridge just beyond the lodge. Look back inland (east) of the bridge for the roost trees. Fourteen condors roost here, all uncountable by ABA rules. Turkey Vultures are common and the condors stay well into the morning, often until noon, returning in the evening. During warm afternoons watch for them among Turkey Vulture flocks anywhere along Highway 1 along the Big Sur Coast from Bixby Ridge south to Lucia. Lucky observers have seen them on dead seals at Andrew Molera State Park (just north of Big Sur along Highway]). Comprehensive details are found at http://www.bigsurcalifornia.org/condors.html .

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Monumental. Prehistoric. Time slid backward to the Jurassic through the clouded lens of the scope. Its head hung low, detesting the deluge from above, a discerning eye occasionally opening to contemplate the annoyance below,

Hours passed. Eventually a lull in the rains stimulated the imposing raptor to unfold its colossal wings. Overwhelmed with emotion, tears flowed. Was it the sheer size or just feeling privileged in encountering such a rare bird, which had so narrowly escaped extinction? It certainly was an honour to behold such a creation.

It was mid-morning. Awake at dawn, tired from a night in the back seat of the car, thoroughly wet, hungry and cold - a celebration was in order. Entering an aesthetic small cafe just north of the park, unshaven, hair sodden and unkempt, I felt self-conscious, but looking around the room I could see that other people had spent time in the weather.

"Menu?"

"Yes thank you, I must look like a drowned rat."

"Hiking?"

"Looking at California Condors. Do they bring you much business?"

"It's difficult to say. Did you see one?"

"Yes, the last one I saw was thirty years ago, a dissatisfied look as it quickly flew past at Squaw Flats."

"So this must be a special day for you."

"Very special."

"Coffee?"

"Oh, yes please."

Once seated, I decided on a breakfast burrito. It was an excellent choice. The flavour was unusual, but delicious. Side dishes of jalapenos, black beans with sour cream and copious cups of steaming hot coffee soon satisfied my hunger and warmed my soul.

Returning to the park, I noticed a condor perched in a bare snag drying its wings over highway 1. The scope was deployed. One - then two - four - eight - ten and finally fourteen. One flew into a redwood occupied by several Turkey Vultures which immediately scattered, dwarfed by the great condor. The sight of all those tremendous wingspans in close quarters to one another was awe-inspiring, mesmerizing and spiritual. Curious, a proliferation of tourists soon filled every available parking space.

"Are they condors?"

"Yes."

'Wow, they're huge. Can I look through your telescope?"

"Yes; It'll cost you ten bucks." Smiles from everyone.

"How many are there?"

"Fourteen, I believe the total number introduced in this area. The older birds, released on Dec 12, 1997, have blue tags, the yellow tags were released on January30, 1999, and the most recent, orange, released on March 4, 2000."

"What are those wire things with the tags?"

"They all wear radios, they're antennas"

"Thank you."

"Your most welcome."

Admiring the condors from 6 am to 2 pm was certainly more time than I have given to any other bird in my life. I left saturated with everlasting memories as I drove towards the San Jose hills and my next quarry, the coastal race of Sage Sparrow.